Dear Margaret
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The gist: Expect to be charmed at this Lakeview abode, thanks to warm, welcoming décor and comforting French-Canadian fare from chef Ryan Brosseau. He draws on his Ontario upbringing to inform a menu that is equally rooted in Midwestern sensibilities, made capable through the kitchen team’s close relations with local farmers and purveyors. It goes a long way in the hands of Brosseau, whose previous Chicago posts range from Perennial Virant to Table, Donkey, and Stick.
The food: Prepare for bold, earthy flavors beginning with apps like Fried Smelts cooked in beef tallow, or Spaghetti Squash Carbonara with smoked chestnut mushrooms, and moving onto mains like the Pork Schnitzel or Duck Leg Cassoulet, a carnivorous melee of navy beans, bacon, pork sausage, pickled root veggies, and sourdough breadcrumbs.
How to book: Reserve via Tock.