Gene Tang has got one of those deep cellars for deep pockets. You want to drop a few grand on a first-growth Bordeaux or a trophy cab just to say you did? Be his guest (and can we be yours?). But the sprawling list isn’t just a collector’s kit. Look to Australia and South America for a cool change -- try a Frisk sparkling riesling; Argentine and Chilean labels with integrity and character, like Bodega Colomé and Terra Andina; or intense stickies from Yalumba or d’Arenberg.