Greek celebrity chef Maria Loi (some have called her the "Martha Stewart of Greece") rebounds from the closure of her prior spot Loi with another namesake tavern in Central Park South. Loi Estiatorio, all white walls and brown leather booths, is simply decorated but the menu is not: Loi has taken the opportunity to play with traditional Hellenic fare. The inventive appetizers shine, with red wine-octopus placed over fave puree with capers and onions; and juicy scallops plated with house-made lamb bacon and parsnip puree. Those wanting something more traditional can look to the entrees, where lavraki (lemon-olive oil branzino) and yogurt drizzled lamb chops stand up to expectations. And because the theme wouldn't be complete without a little Greece creeping into the cocktail menu, a take on the Old Fashioned is spiked with tsipouto, a Greek pomace brandy.