From Chef Alex Leonard (formerly of Blanca) and Hugh Crickmore of Mas (farmhouse), this LES newcomer focuses on seasonal ingredients and culinary techniques from Japan, seen in dishes like the chicken yakitori -- which, for transparency, is $54 for a whole portion, because you are not living the lowlife at Lowlife. But that doesn't mean the entire menu is not for the faint-of-wallet -- there are a number of equally impressive, lower-priced items, like the borscht with trout roe and raw cream, and the herring and sardines with pine nuts and chimichurri.