The kitchen at Portland's historic The Heathman Hotel (where 50 Shades of Grey was set) has had not one, but three James Beard Best Chef Northwest winners commanding the cuisine at its on-site restaurant. Chef Vitaly Paley is among them, and saw the space through the reimagining and remodeling that turned The Heathman Restaurant into Headwaters, a citywide leader for elevated seafood with a Russian tilt. A 'sea bar' specializes in ceviches, crudos and tartares, with an intriguing selection of smoked and kippered fish served with matzo crackers and smoked herring schmear. Dinner is where Paley shines: his creamy chowder with bacon is flavored with tarragon and kissed with Pernod, and a list of "sea creatures" (sea bass, bone-in halibut, prawns) are roasted by the pound. A special section of the menu is dedicated to the French, where Paley can show off with plates like Petrale sole with sea urchin fondue.