Paiche

Portland
Peruvian Restaurant
$$$$

PERMANENTLY CLOSED

It's no wonder chef Jose Luis de Cossio's Peruvian cafe is centered around ceviche: people love the lime-heavy fish dish that has become synonymous with Peru. The chef is no stranger to the nation's cuisine -- he led the kitchen at Lima's renowned La Mar and Portland's premier upscale Peruvian restaurant Andina, but traded in fancy and grand for thoughtful and small-scale at this petit stop in Lair Hill. When you're not lapping up his Hawaii- and Japan-sourced fish in leche de tigre, other options like kale-mushroom empanadas are on offer. But if a bowl of ceviche isn't a part of the order, you're not doing Paiche the right way.

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