Andres is a lifeboat for Cuban cuisine in a region that tends to look South of the Border, rather than off the coast of Florida, for its Latin food fix. The highway-side staple is large, with tables draped in cloth and a glass-roofed atrium where you can in tuck into Cuban paella (which you'll have to request a day in advance) or the emblematic ropa vieja (shredded beef with simmered onions and peppers in a wine pan sauce). Puerto Rican flavors (the nationality of the Cuban owner's wife) pop up here and there, notably in the pollo a la plancha (a lemon-garlic chicken breast with lots of onion). Finish with a flan and a Cuban espresso, señor. You can stop into the next-door latin market should you be inspired to pick up spices to make Cuban food at home, plus authentic additions from Argentina, Brazil, Peru, Costa Rica and Venezuela.