Gloria’s small Salvadorian outpost in Columbia Heights looks something like a mix between a truck-stop cafe and a nursing home dining hall: white and turquoise walls and pale pink columns, black-and-white checkered tile accents, exposed ventilation shaft, fluorescent light, a floor that looks better suited for a high-school hallway. But you didn’t come here in search of inspiring design, you came here to eat. And made-to-order pupusas you shall eat: here, the cheesy, pork-filled corn pockets are hot, crisp and accompanied by black beans, avocado, pickled cabbage and red salsa. Take them to-go in styrofoam or tuck in at one of the tables with patterned tablecloths. Either way, bring cash.