Early humans made the transition from a nomadic lifestyle to a sedentary one, and so did food-truck-turned-storefront El Chilango. Revered by residents of Radnor-Fort Myer Heights when it was mobile, the taco team is now set up below a row home on a small street off the U Street Corridor. It’s no-frills, and the menu is limited mostly to tacos, but that’s because it’s what they know: double corn tortillas topped with carne asada, beef tongue, chorizo, al pastor, chicken or mixto (beef and chorizo). A sprinkle of chopped onions, some sprigs of cilantro, a squirt of lime and a side of sliced radish and cucumber complete the flavor experience, immaculate in its simplicity. They’re good enough that it doesn’t matter that you’re eating on a paper plate.