The gist: The minimalist aesthetic and funny-but-not-cutesy menu details immediately make guests feel welcome at Hersh’s, but it’s the thoughtful play on Italian fare that makes them stay.
The food: Chef Josh Hershovitz finds beauty in the ordinary, making mundane green beans, corn, and peas sing with housemade aiolis, oils, and focaccia on the appetizer menu. Move on to toothy pasta like basil ravioli or squid ink tagliolini and Naples-inspired pies with kale and pistachio. Even the salads, which tend to be an afterthought at other places, stand out here.
The cost: Snacks and salads are $10-14, pizza is $15-18, pasta and entrees are $24-26, drinks are $6-12.