Holbox is a top-tier mariscos stand, but it fits this category in particular because of chef Gilberto Cetina Jr.’s meticulous sourcing. When you walk up to the counter in Mercado La Paloma, there will be an array of sea creatures splayed on ice under the glass. There may be Hawaiian kanpachi; scallops from Baja; or local rockfish ready to be diced into ceviche, sliced into aguachile, or fileted and fried into classic fish tacos at any moment. The sauce work is bright and punchy, and preparations are on point, a perfect complement to the pristine fish.
How to book: Reservations are available via Tock.
Having conquered LA’s terrestrial Yucatan-style food scene, chef Gilberto Cetina Jr. turned his eyes to the ocean. Holbox is named for and inspired by the island just off the Northern coast of the Yucatan peninsula, though the seafood is meticulously sourced as close to LA as possible. Dishes are artfully composed, like the electric green aguachile plated around slivered avocado. Wood-grilled fish are consistently excellent, the sopa de mariscos is an under-the-radar banger, and do not miss Cetina’s thrilling work with octopus in any form.
How to book: Walk in, call 213-986-9972, or order online for takeout and delivery.