Growing up in north central Thailand within a restaurant family had chef Ohm Suansilphong immersed in kitchens from an early age. And after stints that include Nahm (Bangkok) before eventually co-founding the NoHo favorite, Fish Cheeks—where he’s currently still a partner—Suansilphong has now teamed up with his wife, Kiki Supap, for KRU: a hotspot offering modern takes on old Thai recipes once designated for the country’s royal family. In a moody dining room, the incorporation of elements discovered in historical texts from the 19th century, in addition to an overall masterful command of Thai cuisine, make for an exciting meal here. Must-try dishes include the Cauliflower “PLA” with Scallop; “LON” with Crabmeat; “Kaeng Pa” Beef Tongue; and Rice Omelette that’s especially great for balancing out any spice.
Honoring 100-year-old recipes once served to royalty, this new Thai restaurant on our best new restaurant list is also the perfect place for an opulent holiday celebration. KRU is opening on Christmas Eve to offer a family-style feast. The seven-course menu kicks off with Ma Hor, a historic appetizer to enjoy before a feast, then continues on with dishes like a Lobster and Purple Sweet Potato Tart and Kaeng Ped Yang, a dish of roasted duck curry with apple. Dessert is Khanom Farang, an item akin to fruitcake, but unlike your family’s recipe, this is a version that won’t go untouched.