Chefs like to dedicate their restaurants to family, to a hometown, to a style or region. But at Kuya Lord, the new fast casual Filipino spot from Lord Maynard Llera, the style is simply Llera’s own; it even says “Filipino food done my way” on the takeout bags. Llera has earned the right to do things his way, through his training at places like Bestia and the H.Wood group and through the well-earned praise for Kuya Lord as a pop-up. And Llera’s style is powerful—when you walk in the door you are hit by a wave of wood smoke, the primal pleasure of grilled meat with a punchy little whiff of fish sauce underneath. It’s a small space, and this is genius marketing, a surefire way to get you to order one or two extra things. The primary format on the menu is silog, garlic rice bowls with a fried egg, salads, and your choice of meat, which include the muscular grilled short ribs called Tapa, roasted pork belly Lucenachon, and house-made sweet or savory versions of Longanisa sausages, along with a rotating set of specials like Hiramasa collar or blue prawns. You can also get large-format trays, a Lordly feast.
How to order: Walk-in only for now.