There's plenty of great food in Chinatown, but Lamaii has a stylish, contemporary dining room with imported Thai furnishings and low lighting. It all sets a mood to match Bank Atcharawan's engaging take on Thai cuisine. The name of the restaurant translates to "delicate," a description reflected in minimalist, modern plates decorated with flowers and microgreens. Fresh sashimi and crisp salads are balanced by bold recipes like spicy grilled pork jowl, fried duck, and a beautiful steak tartare flavored with lime, fish sauce, and Isaan-inspired spices. The wine list is worth a visit alone and offered at low markups from compelling small producers. There are slightly more whites than reds on the menu, including sweeter Rieslings, which help counter the spiciness found throughout much of the menu. A newer Henderson location has a similar menu and a slightly more casual feel.
How to book: Call 702-238-0567 or make a reservation.