The gist: Le Comptoir du Vin is located in this cozy Maryland Avenue space with charm and chalkboard menus out the wazoo, but it’s what co-owners Will Mester and Rosemary Liss have created out of seemingly simple concepts that’s made it last.
The food: The bowl of French lentils (with curry and labneh) is a revelation. The house sourdough bread (credit sous Kelsey Martin) and delicate chicken liver pate with red wine shallots is addictive. And the steak tartare tossed in anchovy sauce alongside potatoes fried in duck fat is last meal kind of stuff.
The cost: Charcuterie is $7-35, starters and pantry items are $5-12, sandwiches are $10-12, and bottles of wine are $19-32.
How to order: Order online for contactless takeout.