There are few things more interesting than a really talented chef with an obsession. Trevor Moran fits both those criteria, and he’s turned his fascination with creating the perfect dumpling into a winner of a restaurant. You could write the menu on a matchbook, but every single item is worth your attention. Or go with a few friends and order everything for a meal of pork dumplings, shrimp pockets, beef tartare and vegetables with dipping salts. Don’t forget a finisher of kakigōri, a Japanese shaved-ice dish that can be topped with just about anything, and long as it’s delicious.