Shion @ 69 Leonard
Chef Shion Uino came to town in 2017 after spending a decade working at one of the world’s most prestigious—and impossible to book—sushi counters, Tokyo’s Sushi Saito. While he initially landed at Sushi Amane (also on this list), he has since decamped and teamed up with 69 Leonard owner Idan Elkon to take over this lauded eight-seat omakase counter. The $480 (gratuity included) Edomae-style experience has morphed from one paying tribute to kaiseki, to a menu based around rare seafood and, unquestionably, the city’s most excellent interpretation of ethereally custardy tamago. Uino receives six fish deliveries per week and, in terms of menu progression, patrons can expect to commence with sashimi, then move into a series of tsumami (small appetizers), followed by nine nigiri bites, a hand roll, soup and that tamago. Guests also have the option to add on à la carte bites from sashimi to chinmi (rare bites).