Simon

Los Angeles
American Restaurant
$$$$

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Mariscos trucks are not uncommon around LA; many of them are quite good. But there may be no mariscos truck—and few food trucks in general—operating on the level of Mariscos Chingones Simón, the new truck that parks at the Sunset Junction triangle most afternoons. It is painted a predictable ocean blue with a fish skeleton logo, but a quick perusal of the menu will reveal that cousins Alexis Chacon and Francisco Aguilar are doing unique things with sea creatures. There is, for example, Pescado Al Pastor, a slab of fish spiced like al pastor and served with charred pineapple; it hits exactly the right balance of the familiar flavors of adobo and acid with the novelty and lightness of flaky fish. There is also a riff on the Taco Gobernador enveloped in a tube of crispy fried cheese, octopus cooked like barbacoa, aguachile infused with the Oaxacan smoked chile paste chintextle, and they’re just getting started.
How to order: Walk-up only.

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