A couple is doing Polish right in an eight-table Matthews strip mall stop. It shouldn’t have to be said, but order the pierogis, those starchy mashed potato-filled dumplings that are the darlings of Eastern Europe: the sampler platter gives an adequate survey with beef, spinach, mushroom & sauerkraut and cheesy potato each making a cameo. Dip in sour cream liberally. Kielbasa (like a hot dog in look and flavor, just bigger) comes grill-marked, cabbage is served stuffed with an herbal rice and ground beef and a brilliantly purple-red borsch is earthy and light. Does the NATO alliance with Poland need any other justification than that?