The gist: Cantonese-style barbecue with a focus on chicken and duck is served quickly via counter service.
The food: Portland’s Chinese scene improves year after year, but one area that is lacking, save for a few rare exceptions, is Cantonese-style barbecue. YāYā, on NE Alberta Street, helps to fill that void, serving a variety of smoked and roasted meats, including duck, chicken, and pork belly. The poultry is available by the half or whole bird, served with rice, pickles, and sauce; pork comes with similar sides or sandwiched in a fluffy bao. Everything here is tender, juicy, aromatic, and comforting.