300-Year-Old Birria with Chef Jonathan Zaragoza

The Zaragoza family has been making birria, a traditional goat stew, on Chicago’s South Side for 15 years. But according to Chef Jonathan Zaragoza, the recipe for the family restaurant’s sole dish (if you don’t count flan) dates back at least 300 years. We caught up with Jonathan to talk about growing up on goat, perfecting the crispy bits on his birria, and how years of thoughtful delivery methods made the Zaragoza family ready to run a restaurant in the pandemic.