Food & Drink

Sushi and sashimi in Thomas Circle

Toronto's a proving ground for talent that eventually hits it big Stateside, from Michael Ironside, who famously played "Jester" in Top Gun, to Howie Mandel, who as a jester, was considerably less funny than Michael Ironside. Unleashing Canadian fury on DC: Zentan, at the Donovan House

From a Hong Kong-raised Iron Chef-contender who's built his rep on a slew of Toronto fooderies, Zentan's a sleek, slate-tiled, cross-Asian dining hall ornamented with finished black tables and hanging, razor-like pallets of faux-candles -- blow them all out at once, and it seems your birthday wish of "freaky strong lungs" already came true. The grub runs from staple sushi and sashimi options, to signature rolls like the Salmon Lover (salmon, spicy salmon, avocado, and tobiko) and the Fire Cracker (shrimp tempura, spicy lump crab salad), to entrees like Caramelized Black Cod, Cantonese Marinated Skirt Steak, and Mongolian Lamb Chops -- also the name of an adorable puppet who entertains children by ruthlessly conquering all of Central Asia. As for booze: in addition to beer, wine, and soon-to-come sake, there're cocktails like the "Spring Red Cherry Mojito", the "Tanqueray Ten Gin Blossom" (w/ fresh strawberry water and edible flowers), and the chili-infused Grey Goose/Nigori Sake "Spicy Thai Martini", sure to leave you shaken and slurred

In the coming weeks, Zentan will be offering an abridged version of their sushi menu at the Donovan's rooftop pool-bar, where Michael Ironside will greet you with "That was some of the best sushi I've seen to date -- right up to the part where you got swilled".