Food & Drink

Pork, oysters, and beer on Fulton

Published On 10/08/2008 Published On 10/08/2008

Dominated by an armada of walnut tables joined to form a single communal one, the Blackbird/avec team's take on boisterous Euro brasseries and beer halls slings 150+ global bottles and 12 taps, from Norway's Nägne ä God Jul Winter Ale to Munster, Indiana's Munsterfest. The menu's anchored by heirloom pork & seafood, including house-made charcuterie (crispy-skinned pork belly, country terrine, Morteau sausage), tripe & blood sausage gratin, wood-roasted black sea bass, and oysters from exotically dismal locales like Strangers Bay and Desolation Sound -- or, what escapes your mouth just before saying, "ä God, I'm in Munster, Indiana".

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1. The Publican 837 W Fulton Market St, Chicago, IL 60607 (West Town)

Paul Kahan's West Loop restaurant feels like the Midwest; big and welcoming with communal tables, it's a farmhouse and a beer hall at the same time. The menu focuses on three things: beer, pork, and oysters, but you'll also find vegetable and fish alternatives. The beer selection features brews from all over, with a fair share from Belgium and Chicago.